I still remember the day I first encountered my mechanical keyboard. It was my very first mechanical keyboard, and it made a big impression on me. On a quiet Double Eleven sale, I went for the ikbc C104, a simple, gray, non-backlit model. The moment I used it, I felt something different—like the old man said, "There's a world of difference."
In my life, I didn't spend much time playing games on the computer at home. Most of my time was spent coding in the office. That's why last year's Double Eleven, I decided to buy a domestic mechanical keyboard—the Black Knight AK33, with blue switches and an alloy frame. It looked really cool.
This keyboard was quite appealing to me: black and red, compact, and portable. Of course, it was also cheap, so I was a bit worried about whether it would be suitable for blue switches. I didn’t want to waste money on something that might not work well.
Some of you might have noticed that this keyboard looks similar to one in a picture. So today, our main character is the Black Knight AK33. Time flies. This year’s Double Eleven had just ended, and I suddenly realized how many mechanical keyboards were in the office. The brightest one was someone else's Cherry 8.0 RGB. That stirred up my teenage heart again.
After reading an article from a senior in the group, I decided to rebuild my AK33. I started by removing the keycaps.
Unplugging the keycap.
Then came the idea of changing the switches. First, I bought a solder sucker (I used a soldering iron before to fix earphones, and I heard that the solder sucker is more efficient, especially for someone like me who isn't very skilled). I unscrewed the back cover and started removing the switches.
The first time I removed a switch was tough. This keyboard has LEDs, which weren't easy to dismantle. I spent a lot of time figuring it out. I found that inserting the LED was like turning it off, but it wasn’t actually broken. Then, I heated both solder joints at the same time using the cutter head. The switch came out a bit harder. In this process, it's best to keep the keyboard upright, so it can withstand some movement. The leftover tin doesn’t need to be cleaned up—it’s easier to reattach the LED later. I took a long time to remove the first switch because I didn’t use the solder sucker properly. I needed to heat the solder joint enough, then apply the solder sucker quickly. Watching tutorials was essential.
Next, I scouted a Kingston board with red switches, a 104-key version, and the switches were brand new, totaling 88 pieces. I'm not sure if it was worth the price, but this board was better than mine. The tin melting point was relatively low, so I followed the trend and went for the red switches.
After that, I started dismantling. I tried painting it. I used Tamiya model paint, red, to cover the background. I didn’t use a primer, so I bought a bottle of matte protective paint and another of glossy protective paint. I prepared a matte aluminum plate and let the plastic cover underneath shine. I started spraying, but it turned out messy. I realized tinkering was a challenge for beginners. I couldn’t fix mistakes, and I didn’t understand what I was doing. I was scared of wasting materials and ended up with unsatisfactory results.
The final result was still better than the mess, but I still didn’t want to post it. It was ugly.
I worked on it for two nights. In the end, I really didn’t want to continue with it.
Then I soldered the switches. During continuous computer testing, I added the LED back. When the light was turned on, I inserted the LED and heated the leftover tin. If there was enough tin, no extra was needed. This part was the fastest.
Finally, the product. Did it look any different from before? Hmm.
Then I tried it. There was nothing wrong with the keyboard; it was all about typing. But I found that the 'e' key wasn't working, and the number keys had no light. It worked fine before. Then... The full-light mode looked like this:
Pit father! How did a single mode turn out like this? It turned out that one pad was missing after installation. I decided to disassemble it again and try to solve the first two issues.
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